Archive for category Wine Travel
After a long hiatus, I’m back! I just updated the list of free tasting rooms for 2019 and, well, the results are mixed. Only a handful of free tasting rooms remain in Oregon, Paso, and Napa although I was surprised to find a few new ones to add in Sonoma.
What happened to the free tasting rooms?
As I’ve written about before, the business model around tasting rooms has changed. In the good ol’ days, tasting rooms were considered showrooms, often operated at a loss with the hope of making it up through bottle sales and club signups. But today, the American economy is roaring and tourists have money to burn. With this, many wineries have become destinations in and of themselves and the tasting rooms have become profit centers, especially in Napa where many formerly free tasting rooms can now easily run north of $40 per person!
Bargain hunters, take heart!
For those of us who enjoy free tastings, there are still options. Outside of Napa, there’s a small but growing minority of winery owners who disagree with the tasting-room-as-profit model. While they may not give away their wine, they often keep their fees low and many tasting rooms will gladly waive your tasting with a bottle purchase.
(For a while, there was a trend where wineries would only comp tastings with purchases of 3, 4 or even 6 bottles. Thankfully, many wineries are jettisoning that model and are back to waiving the fee with 1-2 bottle purchases. )
Additionally, some wineries offer free tastings with Yelp! check-ins, many wine regions offer tasting passports, and tasting coupons are readily available from sites such as Wine Country This Week and my Free Tasting Room Guide.
If you’re staying in wine country, be sure to ask your hotel if they offer free tasting coupons (many do!) and ask your favorite wineries if they have coupons available for other wineries nearby.
It’s been quiet around here lately. Too quiet, and I’m sure “real” bloggers are cringing at the silence. But I’ve been out tasting and traveling, and today I’m back with a discussion on California’s Temecula Valley.
Never heard of Temecula? Well, you’re in good company and there are a few reasons for its obscurity. For one, it’s pretty small – only 40-ish wineries call Temecula home, and you can drive from one end to the other in about ten minutes. It’s also pretty far off the beaten path for most wine travelers, located about halfway between LA and San Diego. To top it off, the wineries here are fairly small, so their wines are rarely found outside of Southern California.
Until recently, any visit to Temecula would be a short one – there were scarcely enough wineries in the valley to make a day of it. And what you’d find were mostly sweet wines and flavor-infused sparkling wines. Nothing wrong with that of course, but it did mean that the region was always overshadowed by it’s bigger brothers to the north.
Fortunately for wine lovers the tide in Temecula is changing. While the sweet wines and fruity bubbles are still there, the region is upping its game on the more traditional reds and whites. Many could easily hold their own when compared to similar wines produced in other parts of California. The Italian white varietal Arneis really shines here as well as Muscat made in a range of styles. For reds there’s a huge variety, but Syrah and Zinfandel in particular are worth seeking out.
With over 40 wineries you can easily spend a couple of days here. Wineries in Temecula fall into two broad categories: tiny-production family wineries, and large “chateaus” with plenty of room for busses and limos. There’s really no middle ground. Both are making pretty good wine, but I greatly prefer the smaller places which are less crowded and thereby offer more personalized attention.
If you’re a first time visitor, Hart Winery is a great place to start. This small family winery is the first one on the map and serves as a great introduction to the wines of Temecula. If you’re not sure where to go from there, they’ll offer some solid recommendations of both large and small wineries.
Tasting fees in the region are generally $10-$15 for 5-6 pours. Most places hold you pretty strict to that number, often by using poker chips to keep track of your pours (a blatant and tacky tie-in to the nearby casino.) However, an extensive collection of 2-for-1 tasting coupons is available at http://www.temeculawines.org/wineries-vineyards/coupons.php . A few appear in the printed Temecula Visitor’s Guide as well as on winery web sites.
The nearby casino is your first hint that despite being a legit wine region, Temecula has also become a party destination for Southern Californians with money to throw around. In fact, weekends here can be nothing short of miserable, especially during the summer as the larger wineries become crowded and temperatures can exceed 100 degrees.
So if you’re trying to save a buck here, avoid weekends! For inexpensive hotels, check out nearby Corona and San Marcos, or even San Diego. In fact, combining Temecula with a visit to San Diego is a great way to experience the region, especially if you’re a beer lover (since that’s kinda San Diego’s thing.)
If you get hungry, your best option is to head back into the city of Temecula or pack a picnic. Several wineries are picnic friendly and offer first-come-first-serve picnic areas for groups of 10 or less. Many of the larger wineries do have restaurants on site, but most are unjustifiably expensive and only open on weekends. The one exception seems to be the deli at Cougar Vineyard & Winery where you can get a pretty good deli sandwich and drink for about $10.
So, should your travels take you to southern California, or if you just happen to be in the mood for something a little different for your next wine trip, give Temecula a shot. I’d be curious to compare notes!
As winter draws to a close, I always start dreaming of warmer places. So this seems like a great day to talk about one of my favorite “accidental” California wine country discoveries – the tiny coastal town of Avila Beach.
While poring over our map on a recent Central Coast trip, we spotted a small cluster of wineries on the coast that we’d never noticed before. Given that we’d driven past it dozens of times on California’s 101 freeway, we were a little surprised at our oversight – how had we never heard of Avila Beach?
Only a few minutes from the bustling Paso Robles/SLO wine region, Avila Beach is a popular, yet uncrowded destination for many California golfers and beach goers with a unique history. In the mid 90’s, a ruptured oil pipeline had rendered Avila Beach uninhabitable. The state of California sued, and the oil companies spent a record-setting $200 million cleaning up the mess. In the process, the entire town was literally razed and re-built. Today, Avila Beach is a clean, charming town bustling with shops, restaurants, wineries and hotels.
If you’re looking for a break from the usual wine country scene, Avila Beach is the perfect day trip. Once you make the short drive from Paso, you’ll find plenty of free curbside parking. Ditch the car because you can walk the entire town easily. In the center of town, four wineries (a good number for a day trip) have tasting rooms to keep you busy: Alapay Cellars, Peloton Cellars, Morovino Winery, and 2nd Chance Winery. There is a fifth – Kelsey See Canyon – that’s on your way into/out of town as well. Tastings are reasonable – less than $10 per person – and always waived with bottle purchase. Most also offer wines by the glass.
Avila boasts plenty of great restaurants, but I recommend grabbing some tacos from Taco Shack (it’s better than the name suggests) and have lunch on the beach. Save the nicer places for dinner, where you can grab a table by the ocean an enjoy a more relaxing meal. If you need a pick-me-up, there are a couple of great local coffee shops as well. I’ve also been told that a soak in the hot tubs at Sycamore Mineral Springs is an absolute must.
Given the touristy vibe of the place, we didn’t have the highest of hopes for the wines. Perhaps that’s why we were so incredibly thrilled with what we tried.
Alapay and Peloton both featured solid, well-made wines – a number of which came from high-profile vineyards. Some crowd-pleasers, but also some fantastically complex wines as well.
Morovino offers a fun take on Italian varietals, while 2nd Chance is the second label for Cottonwood Canyon, should you happen to be a fan of their wines.
While we didn’t get a chance to visit Kelsey See, they look to be a worthy stop as well. Along with the usuals, they also pride themselves on making apple wine – a gutsy move in this part of California.
So next time you’re in the Central Coast and need a break from the norm, take a day trip to Avila Beach. You won’t regret it!
Updated for 2019!
Nothing says Thanksgiving like pinot noir, the go-to wine for many a turkey day dinner. And nothing says pinot like Oregon’s Willamette Valley, home of all things pinot noir. So in the spirit of Thanksgiving it seems appropriate to devote a little time to Oregon.
Approximately 100 miles long and 20 miles wide, the Valley follows the Willamette river south from Portland to Eugene. Known primarily for pinot noir, the valley is also home to some truly amazing riesling and pinot gris.
Unfortunately, “cheap” and “Willamette” are two words generally not found together. Willamette wines, while generally of amazing quality, sport notoriously high price tags. And Willamette winery owners in particular have been very vocal in their opinion that tasting rooms should not be free, rather they ought to be seen as premium attractions – and priced accordingly. (See Tom Wark’s particularly astute rant.)
Nonetheless, I think Oregon should definitely be on your wine trip radar.
The scenery is beautiful, the people are friendly, and the wines are outstanding. So here are a few tips to take the sting out of your Oregon adventure.
For starters, the region has not been built up as a mega-luxury destination like Napa. This means you won’t destroy your budget on basics such as lodging and transportation. Resorts do exist if that’s your thing, but I’d rather take advantage of the regions’ proximity to Portland and find an inexpensive hotel in the city to use as a base camp. The drive is reasonable enough to make it worth your while. However if you’d rather stay closer to the action, especially if you’re exploring the southern valley, hotels in the Willamette valley are more reasonable than you’d expect.
Secondly, plan carefully. Good maps are tough to come by, cell phones can be unreliable in the mountains. While many wine regions feature a “main drag” through the region with the best wineries lined up like dominoes, Willamette wineries are scattered about on poorly marked side roads. Though directional signs are plentiful, you’ll still appreciate your GPS in this region. So save yourself a fortune in time (and gas) from unnecessary driving by spending some quality time with a map. Willamette Valley Wine is a fantastic tool to get you started. Also check out the Prince of Pinot’s writeup on the area.
Thirdly, the really expensive stuff is largely concentrated in the northern half of the region. Head further south and you’ll often encounter more deals and fewer crowds.
Be warned that the Memorial Day and Thanksgiving weekends are HUGE festival weekends in the valley. While almost all of the wineries will be open that weekend, the crowds and traffic will be very unpleasant.
Tasting Room Deals
Tasting fees in Willamette generally run in the $10-$15 range with a few $5 holdouts remaining. The scant few free tastings available in the region are listed on my free tasting room guide. As I mentioned before, getting around tasting room fees in Oregon can be a challenge, but there are a few deals you can take advantage of:
- “Oregon Wines Fly Free.” Still THE best deal running in Oregon. The catch is that you must fly into Oregon on Alaska Airlines AND be a member of Alaska’s frequent flier program. Your boarding pass (and frequent flier card) are the ticket to free tastings at over 300 wineries in Oregon and Washington. It also waives the checked baggage fee for one case of wine per person. The deal is ongoing and membership in Alaska’s “Mileage Plan” is free.
- Oregon Wine Passport. This tasting passport sells for $90, but often goes on sale for $60. Valid for two people, it gets you free or 2-for-1 tastings at nearly 80 wineries in Oregon for one calendar year. At $60 it’s a steal!
- Groupon. While Willamette tasting room coupons are few and far between, you can often catch some really good ones in the Oregon Wine Tasting Groupon page.
- Spend $10 Or Less Tasting at These Oregon Wineries – many thanks to the Salem Statesman Journal for this helpful article!
Good luck, and if you’re an experienced Oregon wine traveler with great travel tips, leave them in the comments. We’ll add them to future revisions of this guide (and give you credit of course!)
Hotels are so 2010. Guest houses are the latest trend in wine country lodging – more specifically, winery guest houses. Previously unadvertised and reserved for wine country VIP’s, members of the wine trade and the press, many of these guest houses are now being made available to the general public as wineries search for new sources of revenue.
While never cheap, (rooms rarely go for less than $200/night) in some situations these guest houses may actually be a really good value! Here’s what you ought to know before you ditch your reservation at the Best Western in favor of your own private wine country cabin.
Winery guest houses (some wineries call them lodges or cottages) are remarkably uniform and there are two preferred setups: either you rent the entire property (your own wine country cabin!) or the house has been sub-divided into smaller rooms or suites that rent individually.
Along with the amenities you’d expect in a normal hotel room (smoking and pets are nearly always prohibited), you’ll generally find a large patio, full kitchen (hopefully stocked with coffee and snacks) and oftentimes a hot tub, fireplace, outdoor grill and picnic tables. Guests are also typically given VIP treatment at the host winery including special tours, free tastings and often a free bottle of wine or two in the room. We’re even aware of winery that sends the partial bottles from the tasting room up to the guest house at the end of the day!
Rates vary widely – expect to pay between $200 and $1,000 per night plus a cleaning fee. A 2-night minimum is pretty standard and the rate may vary based on how many guests you have. Some guest houses are only open to wine club members and their guests, while most others offer huge discounts (as high as 50%!) to club members. There are often off-season and mid-week discounts available and you may even discover a few extra bennies: I know of one particular winery that credits any wine you purchase from them against the cost of your room!
If it were me, I’d only consider a guest house if I was traveling with a group – say 4-6 people. If you can catch one for under $400 per night, it may prove to be a better value than the 2-3 hotel rooms you’d ordinarily rent for that kind of group. If you have separate bedrooms there’s still plenty of privacy and if you enjoy cooking you can use the kitchen and grill to save on meals.
Lodge-style guest houses (where you’re only renting one room rather than the whole house) are a pretty poor value in my opinion. I have found some happy-medium arrangements where the house has been split in half. For instance, rather than renting the whole house, you get the entire upper or lower level. These setups can be a good deal depending on the layout so it pays to ask.
To date, nobody has put together a central directory of wine country guest houses that we’re aware of. So to see if your favorite winery offers one you’ll need to check their web site. It’s usually found in the “visit us” or “wine club” sections. If it’s club-only, you may have to dig thorough your paper club newsletters for the info. If all else fails, a phone call to the tasting room might turn up an unadvertised room as some guest houses are still kept private. If the winery doesn’t have any official guests in town, they may be glad to let you stay with them!
As much as I hate spending unnecessary money, I’m really a big fan of guest houses – if the price is right. They’re a bit of a luxury, but a low-key and unpretentious one, and they can be a good value under certain circumstances. You’ll almost always come away from a guest house visit with great stories, a few new friends, and the feeling that you had a more genuine wine country experience.
If you want strange looks at a cocktail party, tell people you’re planning a trip to Lodi, California. The “why-on-earth-would-you-ever-go-there?” look tells you two things: either they’ve never heard of the place, or (among wine folks) they consider Lodi something of a backwater.
We received a number of those looks from the folks in Sonoma on our fall California trip, which just wrapped up. This year we decided to give Lodi a shot, along with a couple days on the well-traveled roads of Sonoma (our favorite wine region ever!).
A hidden gem of a wine region, Lodi has been on our radar for quite some time. But even though Napa Valley legend Robert Mondavi got his start here, Lodi has remained largely off the tourist circuit. Until just a few years ago there were only a handful of tasting rooms – not really enough to make a day of it. Today there are over 60 with new ones opening nearly every month. Let’s keep it our secret though, because Lodi’s obscurity makes is a great destination for the Dirt Cheap wine traveler!
Charming, clean, and very green (drought? What drought??) Lodi seems a world away despite being a mere hour-ish from Napa. Best known for its old vine zinfandels – some of the oldest zin vines in the world – you’ll also find some exceptional tempranillo, syrah, sauvignon blanc and chenin blanc.
Gone is the pretense you might find in other wine regions. Laid-back is the name of the game here, in the tasting room especially, where you shouldn’t be surprised if the owner excuses himself to punch down a tank of fermenting grapes. And since Lodi is a working town as opposed to a tourist town, most of the excellent restaurants and cafes in the region are priced to fit a working man’s budget without sacrificing quality.
In the tasting rooms we’re thrilled to report that tasting fees are very modest ($5 is the norm), the tasting menus are unusually generous (I don’t think we were ever poured fewer than seven wines) and the fee is nearly always waived with bottle purchase. Bottle prices are equally reasonable, and often a bargain for the quality you’ll experience.
A LOT of wine comes from Lodi and you’ll see several familiar “supermarket” brands represented here (Woodbridge, Delicato, Michael David, Oak Ridge, and Gnekow Family). They all have tasting rooms, and if you see a tour bus or Limo in Lodi, that’s probably where it”ll be.
But we think you’ll be better served by one of the 50 or so smaller wineries in the region. The wine quality is impressive, prices are very reasonable, and the tasting rooms are uncrowded and friendly. And once you’ve worn out the countryside, you can grab dinner downtown and check out some of the storefront tasting rooms – some of which don’t close shop until 9 pm.
The region is compact, so the short drive between tasting rooms will save you a bundle on gas. The roads are flat, straight and well-marked which makes for easy diving and navigation. And the lack of tourists means traffic is nearly non-existent.
If you go, be aware that many tasting rooms are only open on weekends (Thursday – Sunday). Thursday is the slowest day. There are plenty of tasting rooms open earlier in the week, but you may need an appointment for some of the smallest ones.
http://www.lodiwine.com has the most up to date list of tasting rooms. There are also still a handful that offer free tastings, and naturally we have them up on the Dirt Cheap Wine Country free list.
If you’re visiting the Napa/Sonoma area, Lodi is only about an hour away… just keep going east on Highway 12. However, if you’d rather stay in the Lodi area there are a few pretty good hotels in the area available for well south of $100/night.
Klinker Brick (tasting fee: $5) Open Thurs-Mon
Macchia (tasting fee: $5) Open Thurs-Mon
Jeremy Wine Co. (tasting fee: $5) Open Thurs-Sun
St. Amant (tasting fee: free) Appointment Required
Harney Lane (tasting fee: $5) Open Thurs-Mon
Heritage Oak (tasting fee: $10) Open 7 Days
A few weeks ago I posted a guide to the best ways of bringing your wine home after traveling in wine country. That piece was devoted entirely to domestic (US) wine travel; however, thanks to some odd and often misunderstood quirks in dealing with customs, a follow up for international travel seems appropriate.
One of the best parts of overseas wine travel is the fact that, often, high-quality wine sells for pennies on the dollar compared to what you’d pay in the US. So quite naturally, we often purchase as much as we can.
But most of us only have two option for getting that wine home: ship it or bring it with you on the plane as luggage. However, international shipping is complicated and often prohibitively expensive. And since international cargo is x-rayed, FedEx and UPS have been known to periodically confiscate shipments. Therefore, most people opt to haul a case or two on the plane.
Contrary to popular conception, bringing wine into the USA as luggage is incredibly simple, cheap, and remarkably painless.
Here are the basics: for personal use, US Customs allows 1 liter (translated: 1.3 bottles) of wine per person tax and duty free. Beyond that, you’ll have declare your stash and pay duties and taxes. Exactly how much you’ll pay is something of a crapshoot, but most people report paying less than $20 per case. Trust me, that’s a bargain. And most airlines allow for a free checked bag (or two) on international flights which helps further defray costs. Of course, the airlines will be glad to haul as many cases of wine as you like so long as you pay the baggage fees.
If that all sounds too simple, well, you’re right. There’s a catch or two.
If you’re hauling more than a couple of cases with you, Customs may try and argue that you’ve exceeded what they deem a “reasonable” quantity for personal consumption. This seems to be at the discretion of the individual officer, but so long as you don’t have more than two or three cases the risk of this happening is very low.
When it comes to alcohol, US Customs is also tasked with enforcing any STATE laws applicable in the state where you first enter the US. So if you clear customs in a state where wine transport is restricted, you may be in for a nasty surprise. While in theory those restrictions are only supposed to apply to residents of that state, Customs often enforces them on everyone and warns travelers as much in two publications.
If that sounds complicated, here’s a scenario on how this could play out. Let’s say you live in Houston, have been traveling in Europe and have accumulated two cases of wine to bring home.
- If you fly Europe > San Francisco > Houston (clearing customs of course in San Francisco) you’ll be subject to California law, which does not place a cap on wine shipments.
- However, if you fly Europe > Memphis > Houston (where you’ll clear customs in Memphis) you’ll be subject to Tennessee law. Tennessee restricts wine to 12 bottles per person per month, so Customs would seize your second case.
So the biggest keys to getting your wine home hassle-free are to be reasonable with your quantities and pay close attention where your return flight enters the United States.
Generally speaking, the big airports along the coast (and Chicago) are wine-friendly and will pose no problem if you book your point-of-entry connection through one of them. Be careful if you’re offered an international connection through an airline hub in a state with very restrictive wine laws (Pennsylvania, Kentucky, Tennessee and Utah come to mind).